Spring break in Prague
26/05/07 13:25 Filed in: ExploreBlog
Having been
in Prague on a business trip
some years before, I knew it was a place I wanted
to return to. I didn't think too carefully about
the time of year to visit and it was only as we
saw the fields carpeted in snow as the plane came
into land, that I realised March can still be
quite cold in Central Europe!
Not to worry. The city looked as magnificent regardless of the weather and on our day of arrival we were greeted by sunshine. We had chosen to stay at the Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel, just a short distance Wenceslas Square. It's an art deco hotel that has been refurbished to keep something of that style.
That first day we headed into Starometski Namesti, the square in the centre of Prague. The star attraction here is the Astronomical Clock and we dutifully stopped to stare along with scores of others as the clock ticked to the hour and its parade of saints. I remember the last time feeling a little underwhelmed when this fantastic display was over. It was the same this time.
Starometski Namesti at night with the astronomical clock, left and the floodlit Church of Our Lady before Tyn ahead.
But the wonders of this city that - thanks to communism - escaped the worst excesses of 1960s and 70s development are all around. There is Kafka's house, and at the top of the square is the fantastic Church of our Lady before Tyn with its slightly sinister looking black spires.
Communism may have been good for preserving architecture, but, of course, it resulted in a turbulent and tragic recent history. In Wenceslas Square there is the simple memorial to Jan Palach who burned himself to death in 1969 to protest over the Russian invasion of his country. The invasion followed what was called the Prague Spring, in which Alexander Dubcek had tried to make his country less authoritarian. Palach's protest came as the tanks rolled in to reimpose the hard line. This was a reminder of how Jan Opletal died 30 years earlier as students took to the streets to demonstrate against the Nazi occupation.
That night for dinner we returned to the square and were reminded of the value for money when we enjoyed dinner at the Starometska Restaurant which came to less than £15 complete with the wonderful Kozel dark beer.
The next day dawned cold with snow showers as we headed to Charles Bridge. What is it with Prague and jazz. There was a jazz band playing in the square and another one who seem to be a permanent fixture on Charles Bridge, along with the stalls selling artwork and other souvenirs.
Jazz in Starometski Namesti.
Above Charles Bridge is Prague Castle - the largest medieval castle complex in Europe. Within its walls are St Vitus Cathedral, St George's Bailica, various palaces, a monastery and museums.
St George's Basilica in Prague Castle and, yes, that is snow.
The one excursion we pushed the boat out for (pun intended) was a night cruise on the river. This is a pleasant way to spend the evening with more jazz, some drinks and food while sailing past Charles Bridge, the castle and other landmarks. Again the soundtrack on our boat was a live jazz band.
Prague is a fascinating city for a long weekend. For us, the prices are quite remarkable and - while perhaps not the most stylish - the restaurants offer good honest and very reasonable fare.
Prague also seems to have managed what so many cities find difficult. While there are the big chain stores and multi-national names like Tesco and Marks & Spencer, there are also some fascinating and very unique stores too. Like the shop that sells wooden goods, or the many shops with glassware. There's also the outdoor market which, along with foodstuffs and bric-a-brac, has artwork and crafts.
Two things to bear in mind about Prague:
Not to worry. The city looked as magnificent regardless of the weather and on our day of arrival we were greeted by sunshine. We had chosen to stay at the Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel, just a short distance Wenceslas Square. It's an art deco hotel that has been refurbished to keep something of that style.
That first day we headed into Starometski Namesti, the square in the centre of Prague. The star attraction here is the Astronomical Clock and we dutifully stopped to stare along with scores of others as the clock ticked to the hour and its parade of saints. I remember the last time feeling a little underwhelmed when this fantastic display was over. It was the same this time.
Starometski Namesti at night with the astronomical clock, left and the floodlit Church of Our Lady before Tyn ahead.
But the wonders of this city that - thanks to communism - escaped the worst excesses of 1960s and 70s development are all around. There is Kafka's house, and at the top of the square is the fantastic Church of our Lady before Tyn with its slightly sinister looking black spires.
Communism may have been good for preserving architecture, but, of course, it resulted in a turbulent and tragic recent history. In Wenceslas Square there is the simple memorial to Jan Palach who burned himself to death in 1969 to protest over the Russian invasion of his country. The invasion followed what was called the Prague Spring, in which Alexander Dubcek had tried to make his country less authoritarian. Palach's protest came as the tanks rolled in to reimpose the hard line. This was a reminder of how Jan Opletal died 30 years earlier as students took to the streets to demonstrate against the Nazi occupation.
That night for dinner we returned to the square and were reminded of the value for money when we enjoyed dinner at the Starometska Restaurant which came to less than £15 complete with the wonderful Kozel dark beer.
The next day dawned cold with snow showers as we headed to Charles Bridge. What is it with Prague and jazz. There was a jazz band playing in the square and another one who seem to be a permanent fixture on Charles Bridge, along with the stalls selling artwork and other souvenirs.
Jazz in Starometski Namesti.
Above Charles Bridge is Prague Castle - the largest medieval castle complex in Europe. Within its walls are St Vitus Cathedral, St George's Bailica, various palaces, a monastery and museums.
St George's Basilica in Prague Castle and, yes, that is snow.
The one excursion we pushed the boat out for (pun intended) was a night cruise on the river. This is a pleasant way to spend the evening with more jazz, some drinks and food while sailing past Charles Bridge, the castle and other landmarks. Again the soundtrack on our boat was a live jazz band.
Prague is a fascinating city for a long weekend. For us, the prices are quite remarkable and - while perhaps not the most stylish - the restaurants offer good honest and very reasonable fare.
Prague also seems to have managed what so many cities find difficult. While there are the big chain stores and multi-national names like Tesco and Marks & Spencer, there are also some fascinating and very unique stores too. Like the shop that sells wooden goods, or the many shops with glassware. There's also the outdoor market which, along with foodstuffs and bric-a-brac, has artwork and crafts.
Two things to bear in mind about Prague:
- There are lots of stag parties here. They never bothered us, but if it might put you off, choose another destination.
- Remember that the cold weather and the snow can carry on here well into the Spring and come prepared with warm clothing.
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