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Interlaken gateway to the Jungfrau region

Walk around the main street in Interlaken and there are a couple of impressions that you will probably immediately grasp. Firstly, there are the grand hotels that indicate how long Interlaken has been catering for tourists. Their names suggest that much of that traffic, at least last century, was from Britain.

I say "last century", because now the tourists in Interlaken - at least when we were there in early October - were predominantly Asian. Japanese, Chinese, Indian and Pakistani. The draw for the Indians and Pakistanis is that the mountains around Interlaken have become the backdrop for many Bollywood blockbusters. Unable, to use the mountain regions at home, the film crews instead fly to Europe.

hangglider Interlaken
A hang glider comes into land in the centre of Interlaken with the Jungfrau range in the distance.

Carefully packaged Bollywood trips take whole families to Switzerland for the Bollywood experience. There is even a Bollywood restaurant at the top of the Jungfraujoch.

To be honest we found Interlaken a little bit disappointing. The town itself has not a huge amount of character, although as a centre - surrounded by spectacular mountains - it is hard to beat.

One of the must-do trips from Interlaken is the Jungfraujoch. It is a day trip and it is not inexpensive. Even if you have a Swiss Pass this is one of the few journeys where you will have to pay, albeit with a very substantial discount. You also have to accept that, in peak seasons, it will get inevitably get crowded - but you just have to accept that in return for the amazing experience.

Because of this cost, it is worth checking the weather before you decide which day to go up. You really want a clear day to enjoy more than a wall of grey cloud! If you can access the internet (many hotels will have internet access, but most, unfortunately, will charge for it) check the webcams.

Jungfrau
From the Jungfraujoch you get up-close-and-personal with the Jungfrau itself

The Jungfraujoch is Europe's highest rail station at 11,333 feet and sits between the peaks of the Mönch and the Jungrau itself. The journey there takes about two-and-a-half hours with three trains. The usual route is to go up by Wengen, or Grindlewald, and return by the other route. We went up by Wengen and returned by Grindlewald.

The scenery is outstanding. Highlights include the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen. Looking back on it nestling beneath a cliff with a spectacular waterfall made us determine to go back some time.

From there the mountain railway climbs to Kleine Scheidegg and the change to the final cog and pinion railway which makes the ascent to the Jungfraujoch.

This section of the line climbs rapidly before diving into the mountain and most of its journey, amazingly, takes place inside the Eiger and Mönch before emerging eventually at the Jungfraujoch. What makes this all the more incredible is that work on this breathtaking engineering feat began in the late 19th century!

Once at the Jungfraujoch you have various options to take in the amazing panorama. On either side are the peaks of the Jungfrau and Mönch. Looking south from the ridge is the spectacular Aletsch Glacier, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right.

Jungfraujoch
The Jungfraujoch, styled "The Top of Europe" at 11, 333 feet

There are viewing terraces on the buildings and from the sphinx (at the domed building on the top). It is also worth heading out to the plateau to view the vista without glass barriers between you and nature. (It is important to have grippy soles on your shoes as hundreds of feet will have turned the snow into something of a skating rink!)

At 11, 333 feet, you also need to remember that the Jungfraujoch may be sub-zero temperatures, even when it is warm in Interlaken and also, the air is much thinner than at sea level. (About a third of the amount of oxygen.) So you will find yourself at least a bit breathless with exertion, unless your body is accustomed to high altitudes.

A good day trip from Interlaken is to the town of Thun (pronounced "toon") at the head of the Thunersee. You can do this either by train from Interlaken, or by boat, also from Interlaken.

Fulehung in Thun
The hapless jester is still teased as he dashes through Thun 500+ years later

We headed by train to Interlaken, took in the sights of Thun and also stumbled across the Fulehung celebrations (late Sept/early October) which commemorates the humiliation of the court jester of Charles the Bold in 1476, for taunting the troops. The modern day stand-in who takes his place, is taunted by the youths of the town as he runs through the street in a parade with kadett bands.

From Thun, we took a boat trip down the lake to the beautiful Oberhofen van Thunersee. From there we wound up a very pleasant day by using our Swiss Pass to take the boat back at a wonderfully leisurely pace to Interlaken, while quaffing an excellent Feldschlossen Swiss beer.

Oberhofen am Thunersee
Oberhofen am Thunersee

In the town itself there are a few street cafes, particularly around the Marktstrasse, where you can watch the world go by during the daytime, or have an evening meal.

However, our recommendations for eateries in Interlaken are the Pizzeria Horn, just a few hundred yards off the beaten track but well worth finding. The pizzas are made in a wood fired oven right in the centre of the restaurant and the quality and service when we were there, was outstanding. Not surprisingly, it was busy, so you may have to book.

Our other recommendation is Piz Paz, just off the hauftbahnhoff near the centre of town. The food and service were again, excellent and we enjoyed really excellent pasta dishes that the nearby Italians would have been really proud of!



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Switzerland - a photographic journey book at Blurb
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